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Skin Care Ingredients

If you are confused over which skin care ingredients to choose and which skin care ingredients to avoid in your skin care products, you are not alone.



The list of ingredients that are used in personal skin care products is long, with most items sounding like they were studied or concocted in a grade 12 chemistry lab. While conducting good skin care product reviews, staying away from the synthetic chemicals found in most products and using only natural and certified organic personal care products is a great end goal, along the journey it is helpful to know:

  • which ingredients are most problematic and therefore the most important ingredients to avoid
  • what toxic ingredients actually do to the body and the environment.

When determining which are the most important ingredients to avoid, remember that:

Skin Care Ingredients to Avoid

  • skin is our largest elimination organ—it is a two-way membrane that eliminates toxins through sweat glands and allows certain substances in through hair follicles and sebaceous glands. As with many things in life, this fact has pros and cons. It is good because it allows our skin to be nourished externally by some very beneficial ingredients but not so good because it allows potentially harmful substances to cross that barrier and enter the body's systemic circulation.
  • research shows that many of the personal care products we use contain ingredients that are harmful to health and are therefore ingredients to avoid. Because an ingredient in a product you use isn't on the most important ingredients to avoid list, however, doesn't mean you have found the best skin care product. Always be looking for the most natural, most organic, most beneficial products.
  • the potential impact of harmful skin care ingredients is far-reaching—for some consumers, synthetic chemicals impact physically: breathing issues, skin problems, hormone disruption, chronic fatigue syndrome or cancer. For others the challenge may come mentally or emotionally with a chemical soup "tipping point" leading to movement along the autism spectrum disorder scale, anxiety or depression.

With this cleanse I have been more aware of what I am putting on my body, not just inI am aware of this especially when I am skin brushing with a body wash containing its own toxins. It seems silly to be trying to brush out toxins, with a body wash that is full of toxins.  LS



So what are the most important personal care and skin care ingredients to avoid? Everyone seems to have their favorite ingredients to hate but if you look at information put out by well-respected organizations such as the Environmental Working Group and Safe Cosmetics or quality certified organic skin care product manufacturers like ONEgroup, of the common ingredients found in skin care, cosmetics and other personal care products, it seems that the following are the most imperative skin care ingredients to avoid:

1,4-dioxane
—is a chemical impurity created when ingredients are processed with petroleum-derived ethylene oxide. This toxic skin care ingredient is a probable human carcinogen (EPA), a known animal carcinogen (NTP) and readily penetrates the skin (FDA). Common ethoxylated compounds are impurities so they do not always appear on ingredient labels, but can alter and reduce the skin's natural moisture factor. This in turn, can increase the appearance of aging and leave the skin more vulnerable to bacteria. Used in cleansers to dissolve oil and grease, these types of products thicken and adjust the melting points of products. To avoid 1,4-dioxane, ingredients to avoid are: PEG, polyethylene, polyethylene glycol, polyoxyethylene, "eth" (such as in sodium laureth sulfate), oxynol, ceteareth or oleth.

Nitrosamines—are formed when two types of ingredients (ammonia compounds and nitrates), commonly used as foaming agents, skin softeners, synthetic stabilizers and to adjust the pH of cosmetics, react together. Reactions occur during manufacture and storage. The EWG analysis shows that 10% of products contain ingredients that can combine to form nitrosamines. UK Department of Trade and Industry found that nitrosamine levels in some products had more than doubled four months after the product was opened, and increased by more than four-fold over 17 months (DTI 1998). Nitrosamines can cause dry hair and skin, allergic reactions and eye irritations, and no other carcinogen has been found to be carcinogenic in as many species as nitrosamines (IARC 1978, 1982, 1985, 1987). To avoid nitrosamines, ingredients to avoid are: MEA (Monoethanolmine), DEA (Diethanolamine), TEA (Triethanolamine), e.g. Cocamide MEA, Cocamide DEA, DEA-Cetyl Phosphate, DEA Oleth-3 Phosphate, Lauramide DEA Linoleamide MEA, Myristamide DEA, Oleamide DEA, Stearamide MEA, TEA Lauryl Sulfate.

PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons)
—are common contaminants in many petroleum-based ingredients. Derived from crude oil, a non-renewable resource, and polluting to water and marine life, their use has negative environmental impact. PAHs are listed as a probable human carcinogen in the European Union's Dangerous Substances Directive (UNECE 2004) and researchers at Columbia University found that the breast tissue of women with breast cancer was 2.6 times more likely to contain elevated levels of PAHs than the breast tissue of women without breast cancer (Rundle et al. 2000). Petroleum-based ingredients form a barrier when applied to the skin (thus their use in some diaper rash ointments, eczema and psoriasis creams) but should never be used on baby or adult skin as they can clog pores and inhibit skin's ability to breath. Petrolatum is found in 7.1% of personal care products on the market, including 15% of all lipsticks and 40% of all baby lotions and oils. To avoid PAHs, ingredients to avoid are: petrolatum, coal tar, mineral oil, liquidum paraffinum, petroleum jelly or paraffin.

Propylene/Butylene Glycol
—is also a petroleum derivative (a common form of mineral oil) that penetrates the skin and can weaken protein and cellular structure. Because it is found so commonly in cosmetics and skin care products, however, propylene glycol (PG) deserves its own category and ingredients to avoid warning. Commonly used to make extracts from herbs, PG is strong enough to remove barnacles from boats. The EPA considers PG so toxic that it requires workers to wear protective gloves, clothing and goggles and to dispose of any PG solutions by burying them in the ground. Because PG penetrates the skin so quickly, the EPA warns against skin contact to prevent consequences such as brain, liver and kidney abnormalities. PG is an eye irritant, has potentially negative reproductive effects and as a humectant, removes moisture from the skin, not something that is a generally sought after quality in a skin moisturizer.

Fragrances—listed on a label can indicate the presence of up to four thousand separate ingredients, many toxic or carcinogenic. Phthalates, synthetic chemicals used to, among other things, stabilize fragrances, are particularly problematic as they are hormone disruptors, are linked to allergies in children, and may alter pre-natal genital development. Symptoms reported to the USA FDA in response to synthetic fragrances include headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, violent coughing and vomiting, and skin irritation. Clinical observation shows fragrances can affect the central nervous system, causing depression, hyperactivity and irritability. Unless an essential oil (i.e. rose oil) is listed as the fragrance, or the product is labelled phthalate-free, the fragrance is likely to be a synthetic, potentially troublesome, and another of the definite skin care ingredients to avoid.

FD&C Color Pigments
are synthetic colours made from coal tar. The pigments contain heavy metal salts that deposit toxins onto the skin, causing skin sensitivity and irritation. When the FD&C abbreviation precedes the name of a color it indicates the dye is safe for use in drugs and cosmetics but not food. Animal studies have shown almost all FD&C color pigments to be carcinogenic in varying degrees and possible factors in nausea, mood swings, headaches and fatigue. Because up to twice as much toxic material can be absorbed into the bloodstream from the skin as from the digestive tract, the colors in hair dyes, shampoos and conditioners, mascara, lipsticks, eye shadows, blushes and nail polish are all potentially problematic.

Parabens
—these preservatives (methyl, propyl, butyl and ethyl parabens) are used as inhibitors of microbial growth, they extend product shelf life and are one of the more problematic skin care ingredients. Despite the fact they are known to be toxic, next to water, parabens are the most frequently used ingredient in cosmetics. They have caused a wide range of allergic reactions and skin rashes, and research in the UK has shown that parabens produce hormone-disrupting effects in the body, including lowered sperm counts, osteoporosis, autoimmune diseases and breast cancer.

Sulfates
—sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) and ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES) can, when combined with other ingredients, create nitrosamines, a potent class of carcinogens. Besides being used as one of the skin care ingredients in 90% of foaming and lathering personal care products or as filler in skin and hair care products, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS) are also used in car washes, garage floor cleaners and engine degreasers. Animals exposed to SLS and ALS experience eye damage, central nervous system depression, laboured breathing, diarrhea and severe skin irritation (i.e. contact eczema). Children's eyes may not develop properly if exposed to SLS and ALS because proteins are dissolved by these two ingredients. SLS and ALS may also damage the skin's immune system by causing layers to separate and inflame. SLES, ALES, SLS and ALS are frequently disguised in semi-natural cosmeticsand skin care products with the explanation "comes from" or "derived"from coconut. Because this skin care ingredient is in such wide-spread use and in such high concentrations, pay particular attention to ingredient lists and watch for all variations of sulfate type.

Ureas
—Established as a primary cause of contact dermatitis (American Academy of Dermatology), the list of ureas includes diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea and DMDM hydantoin. The ureas contain small amounts of formaldehyde, a carcinogenic chemical that is toxic by inhalation.

Alcohols
—such as isopropyl alcohol, SD alcohol 40 and ethyl alcohol are very drying and irritating solvents and dehydrators that strip skin's natural acid mantle making it more vulnerable to bacteria, moulds and viruses. Alcohols are made from propylene, a petroleum derivative, and are skin care ingredeints that may promote brown spots and premature aging of skin.

Cationic Surfactants
—used in hair conditioners and creams, these chemicals, often called "quats", have a positive electrical charge and contain a quaternary ammonium group. Though used in hair conditioners, they were developed by the paper and fabric industries as softeners and anti-static agents, and are cheaper and easier to use in hair conditioning formulas than proteins and herbals which do promote hair health. Quats are synthetic, irritating, allergenic and toxic skin care ingredients—oral intake of them can be lethaland long term, they cause hair to become dry and brittle. To avoid cationic surfactants, ingredients to avoid are: stearalkonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride and lauryl dimonium hydrolysed collagen.

Lanolin
—is a semi-solid, fatty secretion from sheep's wool, and any chemicals used on sheep will contaminate the lanolin obtained from the wool. Widely used in cosmetics and skin care products, the majority of lanolin used in the beauty industry is highly contaminated with chlorinated organo pesticides like DDT and therefore a prime candidate for the list of skin care ingredients to avoid. Lanolin can cause allergic reactions as well as enlarge pores.

Nanotechnology
—involves the development of material or devices that are smaller than 100 nanometers in size. Nanotechnology is a relatively new industry which, in cosmetic applications, involves using tiny particles of ingredients in personal care products. Because there has not been sufficiently rigourous safety testing on nanotechnology in the cosmetic field (i.e. there have been inconclusive but potentially damaging study results indicating nano particles may damage cells), it is currently best to avoid products using this technology.

While this list is not exhaustive, is it a good beginning to the primary list of cosmetic and skin care ingredients to avoid. Along with additional information on the best natural skin care ingredients and products, you should be well prepared to choose natural cosmetics and organic body care products that support your journey to healthy and beautiful skin.



Check out other Begin Within Natural Skincare Ingredients pages:

Natural Skin Care Ingredients
Then Certified Organic Cosmetics
and finally, Skin Care Product Reviews



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